Though I've cooked from the book and snacked at the bar, until my birthday earlier this week I'd never had a proper dinner at celebrated chef Suzanne Goin's first LA spot, Lucques. Here are the top 5 reasons the dinner rocked (thanks J!): 1) A perfect start, part I: drinking the bar's well-made sidecar, with a dash of vanilla and some fresh squeezed citrus. 2) A perfect start, part II: the small dish of the restaurant's namesake olives and oven-roasted, olive oil slicked almonds delivered to your table delights with rich flavors and satisfying crunch, and the intimate act of eating with your fingers sets the mood. 3) The farmers' names show up on the menu: those crosnes I mentioned earlier this week, from the Weiser farm stand? Listed as "Alex's crosnes" in the description of the rabbit dish I ate. 4) Cozy, cozy, cozy: the fireplace, the booth seating, the warm wood, the scented-but- not-stinky candles in the bathroom. LA's cold snap conquered! 5) The complex, layered, comforting dishes: every bite of my rustic and hearty stuffed saddle of rabbit warmed me to my toes. Similarly, my white bean and wild nettle soup toasted my insides while tickling my nose with its peppery bite.
FULL REVIEW
Few food lovers in LA haven't heard of Lucques, run by Suzanne Goin (recent winner of two James Beard awards--a massive honor in the culinary universe) and Caroline Styne. Lucques (pronounced "Luke") serves what I refer to as "upscale restaurant food." In Los Angeles, that often means Cal-Italian or in this case, Cal-Mediterranean.
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It's not often that this O.C. troglodyte crawls himself out from Stepford country. Yes, life behind the "Orange Curtain" can be antiseptic, safe, and some might say, dull. But with a little bit of resourcefulness and the Internet, it's quite easy to find good grub and fun things to do here, without having to drive in traffic and troll for parking spots in L.A. proper
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Lucques is one of my favorite restaurants, but I'm a little leery of the prices. So the $35 prix fixe Sunday supper seemed like a good time to check back in at Lucques. I like how with prix fixe meals you are forced to eat dessert, saving me from making the choice of whether I'll indulge or not. Since it was our anniversary, I had made reservations earlier in the week, before they released this week's menu. I was a little disappointed to find they were offering squash ravioli and chicken as the mains -- I'm never much of a fan of squash ravioli, which I find often tastes like pumpkin pie, and chicken usually seems like the most boring dish on a menu. I would have preferred, say, a fish and a pork dish, but we decided to just try it anyway. After some of their amazing bread, butter, Lucques olives and almonds, the first course was a salad of arugula, avocado, fennel, olives and albacore. At first glance this didn't seem very interesting either, but each ingredient had so much flavor that the whole was delicicious. It was probably the best, butteriest avocado I've ever had, the olives seemed ten times as good as those from Silver Lake Cheese, and the fennel was shaved so finely you could read through it.
FULL REVIEW
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