Memories can often conspire against one’s enjoyment of food. My last Jean Georges meal did not remind me of that glorious dinner six years ago. However, the pricing for lunch 1 is too cheap not to try it again. On its own terms. I changed my approach with this visit. The [...]
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The most unimaginable thing happened to me for on Thursday: eating lunch with two executive chefs at Jean Georges.
Just to give you the gist on how this event to ever occur, Marc Collins of Circa 1886 in Charleston, SC, emailed me for a bunch of recommendations to eat out around Manhattan since he’s cooking at [...]
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You might think I'm jumping on the bandwagon yapping about the ridiculously cheap weekday lunch at Jean Georges, but if I am, I'm jumping on my own bandwagon. Last year I told you about the $14 a course midday repast...
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Jean Georges I eat at the bar at Jean Georges fairly regularly. The food is nearly always delicious and the service when it's "on" is terrific despite the occasional, lengthly lag time between appetizers and entrees. And overall the staff is a delight. There is, however, one person I would love to see removed from the staff, and though I don't recall her name, she's a bartender in the Nougatine room. Everytime she is working, I sigh. She doesn't pay attention to customers, she's slow at doing just about everything from making drinks to tagging wine bottles, and just has a "way" about her that is inately annoying. But today she was...
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Jean Georges I can't believe it's been three weeks since I've visited JG for lunch. I did get a tour of the kitchen by the man himself two weeks ago, and now I'm back. The pacing between appetizer and entree was a ridiculously long 18 minutes. No excuse for that. The food though, was as good as ever. Cauliflower soup with crystallized mustard and pickled florets...Yeah, this was pretty awesome. I mean, cauliflower - big deal. But this was great. The crystallized mustard was a real zinger and the florets were just the right acidic foil to the creamy soup and spicy mustard crystals. Again, chicken - big deal. But oh how good it was....
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So the reason I lunched at Jean Georges was this: they redesigned the main dining room (not the adjacent Nougatine area, at least not yet). And I felt that a redesign of Jean Georges should be checked out, because Jean Georges is one of this city’s gems, one of its very best restaurants. My view on that’s pretty clear: I reaffirmed its four-star ranking last year. I stand by every one of those stars.
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Thursday Lunch in the Park at (and with) Jean Georges
Jean Georges is changing things up. First the new decor, now bar snacks! And very good bar snacks at that. Black truffle popcorn, wasabi almonds (thick shell of wasabiness) and another deliciously covered nut that I can't place the flavor...cardamom? I'll have to go back and check again. All very good. I went thematic today - choosing all items that were poached in some way, shape or form. This was a poached shrimp soup in roasted tomato and lemongrass broth (soup, if you ask me). Very good. Then I went for the slow-poached chicken which was sitting atop a log of crispy rice cake - something similar to the cubes I had with my...
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A few quick things to note, before I go into the details of today's lunch. I found out that Top Chef alum Lia, has moved over to Spice Market to get some extra training on spices and such. Why? Because she will be the chef for Jean George's upcoming Mexico City outpost. A bit far away - but can we all agree that it would be terrific to see her open up a new JG Mexican-influenced restaurant in NYC in 3-5 years? Chew on that...
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When I ate this particular lunch at Jean Georges on Tuesday, I realized my blog’s birthday is a year and two days old (if you include the time when I was at Blogger and I moved to my current address here)…it’s just beginning to crawl to its infant stage and hopefully progresses to grow to [...]
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Jean Georges Great lunch as usual. Gayle King was in attendance today holding court - actually, waiting for a younger girl (actress or singer perhaps?) at the big round table against the window in the Nougatine room. She sits with the regular people folks! As much as I wanted to have the corn soup (it makes for a great photo spread with the before and after pour shots, plus its corn season of course), I went for the heirloom tomato salad. The tomato broth I had at Knife + Fork, and then the macerated tomatoes at Blue Hill at Stone Barns got me to concentrate on the season's celebrated fruit. This was also terrific. Topped with goat...
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Sat at the bar. Ordered the prix fixe. Same drill as usual. Here's what I got...Corn and lemongrass soup with peeky-toe crab, onions and lime
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Jean Georges Well, this might go down as my least favorite trip to JG to date. Oh well. I guess it fell victim to the Restaurant Week blahs that many restaurants succumb to - though not Eleven Madison Park (see previous review). The flowers looked good. Reminds me of concerts I used to go to at Deer Creek Ampitheater in Noblesville, Indiana this time of year. The options for starters were pretty weak. A berry soup (was it raspberry?) or smoked salmon salad. Skipping the sweet soup, I went for a good standby. This was very good, but hardly exciting. Smoked salmon, julienned vegetables and two strands of hot peppers = boring. Good, but not...
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Jean Georges Bummer. The prix fixe menu was the same as it was last week. No matter, I'll dive into the right side of the menu today. I could have simply ordered one entree or one appetizer and have been content, specifically the tuna tartare. I'd mentioned it in a recent post which acted as a bit of a crave inducer. So that was a given. But they also had soft shell crab on the menu as an appetizer. The soft shell crab was deep fried in a tempura-style batter and was very nicely executed. Crunchy but not at all greasy and the tempura was nearly perfectly transparent. The crab was split in half and placed atop a salad of fresh peas and...
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Jean Georges I know that Top Chef tapes several weeks (maybe more) prior to when we see it and that what I'm about to say probably has no real relavence, but Lia is back in the kitchen at Jean Georges. So take that for what it's worth.Another great meal to cap off a wonky work week - being that the 4th was smack in the middle of it. Since I had watermelon (in addition to my daily banana) for breakfast today, I figured I'd follow up with the chilled watermelon gazpacho with tomato, cucumber and lemon thyme. This, like most soups at JG, was good. But there is often something slightly funny too. The peach soup last week had a weird color,...
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Jean Georges (Nougatine Room) Trump International Hotel This will sound a little silly but this was the first time I had trouble ordering from either side of the lunch menu at Jean Georges. Most of the stuff on the a la carte (right) side of the menu I've either had or was simply unwilling to spend for today (e.g., lobster for $42). The prix fixe offerings (left side of the menu), which changes every Wednesday, didn't quite jump out at me either. Flummoxed, I decided to go for the prix fixe and ordered the soup, pork and fruit dessert. Obviously that's not a fair representation, so we'll go step by step. But first - service from the...
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“I found it absolutely dreadful. Unbalanced flavours, dreadful conception in some dishes, good conception but dreadful execution in others. Some average ingredients.” - Moby
These words, from a comment in a previous post, echoed in my head the day leading up to my Jean Georges lunch. JG was my first “high end” meal five years [...]
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Jean-Georges Nougatine Room I had lunch in the Nougatine Room at Jean-Georges the last two days...here's a report. Wednesday Ate with three colleagues and ordered from the a la carte menu. Appetizer Tuna tartare with radish "tower" in a spicy radish/ginger broth. This was excellent. The tuna was blue fin and was rich and creamy, if you will. There was a layer of guacamole underneath it and was topped with a crown or tower of perfectly assymetrical (you read that right) radish slices. All of this sat in a spicy, acidic and slightly oily broth. Very good. Entree Braised Short Ribs. Also very, very good. Seared perfectly and easily...
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Over at eGullet, there’s a long-standing discussion thread that asks: “Has Jean-Georges Vongerichten Jumped the Shark? Or does he still have the magic touch?”
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Me saying Jean Georges is a phenomenal restaurant is in no way profound or newsworthy, few people in the world do any food, let alone modern French, as well as they do, so rather than go on and on again about how nice dinner was when Bodhi, Nixon, Carter, Ford and I went, I will simply say we put ourselves in the restaurant’s hands as far food and wines to pair and offer you the porn that follows. I will say that if I were only going to afford myself one fine morsel for a long amount of time I would go sit at the bar and drink margaritas and not leave until they served me the egg with caviar, but you already knew that.
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There is a shortcut to becoming a regular at a place, a “regular pass” if you will, and that is being friends with a chef or owner outside their roles in restaurants. One of Pichon’s very good friends is Deputy, and Deputy is a Jean-Georges Vongerichten chef. Jean Georges has always been one of those it-will-be-there restaurants I knew I’d get to but felt no rush. I knew it would always be there (it has very recently had its fourth star reaffirmed by the Times), and the couple of times I had made forays into JGV restaurants I had not had my socks knocked off, so it was on my hit list but not at the top. Then, over a glass of wine Deputy said, “Pichon, Helmut, Ringwald and you should come in for dinner” (do you hear beautiful music when you read it? I did as I typed).
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My friend Maurizio, who loves fine dining more than hot dogs (I forgive him), told me that recently he's been eating lunch twice a week at Jean-Georges. Now Maurizio is not a rich guy, nor does he have a lot of time on his hands. So what has possessed him to eat at one of NYC's great gastronomic temples so frequently? Jean-George's two-course $28 lunch
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If asked to design a New York restaurant that represents all the best of high-end dining, I would surely be accused of plagiarism. I would have created Jean Georges. Although not a restaurant of perfection (more later), Jean Georges does so much so well, and does so with panache, enticement, geniality and a marriage of classicism and fusion. This is a restaurant that deserves all the stars that twinkle over Columbus Circle.
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Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been working full-time everyday, so I come back pretty exhausted. I still haven't fully recovered from finals week either. So far, I'm loving my job, so I don't mind spending my days in the office. The first day, we went out to lunch at Kokkari Estiatorio, which I had wanted to go to for a while. It was good, but not as great as I had hoped; more about that later. The Ferry Building is 5 minutes away from my office, so I've been visiting pretty much every day. I couldn't have asked for a better location to work. But before I start on SF eats, I will just finish up two more posts on NY: Jean Georges and Le Bernardin.
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My brother is outraged that I don't weigh 1000 lbs. "How much do you weigh?" he asked me the other night when he was over. "160," I said and he gave me a look that said: "Yeah right."
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Four Star Meets Lone Star: Desserts by Johnny Iuzzini featuring Texas Grapefruit, part two
Continuing on with four-star pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini’s grapefruit dessert demo, we have almond cake with frozen grapefruits and oranges.
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Four Star Meets Lone Star: Desserts by Johnny Iuzzini featuring Texas Grapefruit
Every day, four-star pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini dazzles diners at New York’s Jean-Georges with his signature dessert tastings. Contrasting textures and temperatures come together in a central theme, be it chocolate, berries or even beets. This Saturday, he did it for free at the French Culinary Insitute. The demo and tasting was sponsored by Pastryscoop.com (an online publication of the French Culinary Institute) and TexaSweet Citrus Marketing, Inc. Can you guess what the theme was?
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Despite internal voices urging caution, some things seem too good to pass up. Many top New York restaurateurs offer special "bargain" luncheons, but few of these establishments match Jean Georges in sheer culinary wattage.
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Jean Georges Am lucky enough to have eaten in this 4-star restaurant with my man..and he fit the entire bill..which didn't make sense to me..he's in school and I'm employed..but wasn't about to complain.
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Jean Georges, Maintaining a Standard of Excellence
I am one of the few people I know who was fortunate enough to have eaten at Lafayette, the restaurant in the Doral Park Hotel (now the Swissotel) where Jean Georges Vongerichten was named executive chef in 1986. And while that might not be a cultural accomplishment on the order of attending the Woodstock Festival (something else I was fortunate enough to do), it is an important culinary milestone to have taken part in. Unhappily, I have no recollection of my meal at Lafayette, and whenever the topic comes up with friends and acquaintances who dined there, I always lose the polite game of one-upmanship that foodies often play when trying to best each other by describing past meals at important restaurants.
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A shot of Coconut-Passion soup, Peekytoe Crab Salad, Asian Pear with Red Onion Chutney (Amuse); Black Sea Bass Crusted with Nuts and Seeds, Sweet and Sour Jus; Maine Lobster with Saffron tapioca, spring vegetables, gewurtztraminer; Soy-Glazed Veal Cheeks, Apple-Jalapeno Salad; Exotic (Warm Pineapple Polenta Cake, Caramelized Ginger; Coconut-Passion Vacherin, Passion Seeds); Black Cherry-Yuzu soda;
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Family Feeding Frenzy: Katz's, Lever House, D.B. Bistro Moderne, and a Return to Jean-Georges
Maybe it's the Jew in me ("Let me out, you putz! It's hot in here!") but I feel guilty about the meals I'm about to share with you. Guilt--am I the only food blogger who feels guilty about eating good food? Maybe because it's all so decadent. But I can shift the blame to my parents--as we already know, my parents are decadent eaters. I'm just the lucky bystander who tags along and eats what is given to me. All I crave are the simple things---a ripe tomato, a slice of cheese. It's my parents who forced this upon me. What you are about to see happened totally against my will, I was dragged along, kicking and screaming...
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Look, I'm not a restaurant critic. It takes a great deal out of me to write my pseudo-restaurant reviews. I'm pseudo-foodo. Not the real deal. I just like sharing either my (a) enthusiasm or (b) disappointment. So let me share my enthusiasm for our meal last night at Jean-Georges. It was wonderful. Put into context--with Per Se and Charlie Trotter's in the backgrond--Jean-Georges was surely the best. The flavors were exciting, the room formal but not stuffy, and the presentation beautiful. Plus, we didn't feel overstuffed at the end. What follows are some pictures from the meal to give you an idea. I didn't photograph each course so as to enjoy the experience more. It's my suggestion that if you come to New York seeking a 4-star dining experience you go to Jean-Georges. You won't be disappointed.
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