Landmarc in TriBeCa was an instant hit when it opened almost three years ago. A second branch of the restaurant is expected to open in the Time-Warner Center early next year. I dined at Landmarc a few times within the restaurant’s first year or so (report here), but then it fell off of my radar screen. A dinner last Friday night reminded me that I ought to return to Landmarc a lot more often.
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We dropped by Landmarc for an early dinner on Saturday night. Lots of families were having early meals and then as we were leaving I noticed that the entire clientele had changed. No kids. It is always great to see a restaurant become part of the community.
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Carebear, my dear friend from the good old days of UVA, has had a busy couple of months. Despite her countless travels each weekend, she has been diligently trying to schedule a belated birthday dinner for me. And this past Thursday we made it happen. She had mentioned something about going to a place in Tribeca called Landmarc and after catching a glimpse of it from the bustling sports bar Buster’s Garage across the street, it seemed it would be a promising spot for a dinner date.
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A trip to Tribeca, the new up-scale neighborhood where the elite meet and greet. Not that I met any of the elite, but then I am a man on a mission. For those of you who may not know, Tribeca is an acronym for "Triangle Below Canal," Canal being a street that runs from the Hudson River to the East River (as most streets in Manhattan do) and that once separated Chinatown from Little Italy. Little Italy has shrunk over the years and Chinatown is now on both sides of Canal, but still, primarily, below, or to the south, of it. Tribeca is to the West of Chinatown.
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My second trip to Landmarc was a mess. Marty and I and two friends ate there last night upon my recommendation. The evening started off okay with our seemingly hearing-impaired waiter (he continually responded, “ What?” to every request) recommending another nice, yet inexpensive pick from the wine list. I tried the chopped salad ($9) with celery, cucumber, hearts of palm, beets, and balsamic vinaigrette. The salad was pleasant, yet pretty basic, something you could make at home very easily.
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Last weekend Marty and I joined two friends to try Landmarc in TriBeCa. There has been considerable buzz about the place for several months (see Andrea Strong, EGullet, Amanda Hesser's NYT review.) The reviews handed out high praise of the roasted marrow bones with onion marmalade and grilled country bread, crispy sweetbreads with horseradish and green beans , foie gras terrine with pickled red onions, sautéed calf's liver with peas, scallions and caramelized onion whipped potatoes, and steak frites. Clearly, too many excellent choices…
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Landmarc is the latest cool restaurant in TriBeCa, a neighborhood that already has plenty of them. It’s named for chef-owner Marc Murphy, who cut his teeth at Le Cirque, La Fourchette, Layla, and Cellar in the Sky, among other places. Landmarc has more humble aspirations than these temples of haute cuisine. It has the feel of a neighborhood hangout, with exposed brick walls and waitstaff in black t-shirts. The menu offers a range of French, Italian, and plain old American comfort food.
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You will love eating at Landmarc, the debut restaurant of chef Marc Murphy and his wife Pamela Schein Murphy. Marc has been out of the spotlight for a while, having taken turns cooking (and wowing critics) at Cellar in the Sky (rest in peace), and at La Forchette, and so it is a pleasure to see him back in his whites, with buddy and chef de cuisine Frank Proto (formerly of Layla) turning out some seriously ambitious, but decidedly down-home rustic French and Italian fare.
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