I finally broke down. Twenty-two months seemed like sufficient elapsed time to try Fatty Crab, a restaurant I was certain would make me grumpy. I first read about this soon-to-open meatpacking eatery while in Kuala Lumpur. Making Malaysian food palatable,...
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Fatty Crab doesn't take reservations. Fatty Crab is an Asian- Malaysian? Thai? Chinese?! - restaurant that boasts something my friends and I like: Dungeness crab. Unfortunately, it also boasts an interior not unlike that of a dive Vietnamese place (an excellent dive Vietnamese place, but one that would stuff me silly for about $6 after tip and tax). The night did not bode well when, our party
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Chef Zak Pelaccio is my kind of guy because he would fry pork belly until it’s crispy and serve it with watermelon chunks and its rind, pickled. The result is a delicious balance of saltiness with juiciness and just the right amount of sourness. I can live with just this dish for a while.
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Malaysian and Singaporean food is an Asian sub-cuisine that has only limited exposure in the NY Metro area. And that’s a shame, because Malaysian cuisine represents some of the boldest, most complicated (and some of the most spicy) flavors around, if you’re into that particular kind of stuff like I am. Malaysia itself is a melting pot of several ethnic groups, including native Malays, Indians, Mamaks (Indian Muslims) and Chinese, and thus the food represents the confluence of all these cultures.
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Fatty Crab is indeed fatty, delicious and worth a visit. My sous chef told me she loved everything she ate, but felt that certain dishes were "messy." She wasn't mistaken. She also recommended a dish that while it may make certain veggie people cower, any bacon lover will be in immediate bliss. So I ventured to the FC ready to get my hands dirty and chow on some Malaysian inspired food by Zac Pelaccio of 5 Ninth.
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Nestled on the western-edge of the meat-packing district, the Fatty Crab is small NYC restaurant that is likely to have a line of people outside – and they don’t take reservations. Inside is a dark wood décor, dark rose paint and exposed brick with cups of chopsticks on every table, to set a casual comfortable atmosphere. The restaurant is somewhat dimly lit by hanging exposed lightbulbs and a votive on every table.
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No reservations, open from noon to 4AM, take out available, sharing is a must. Those are the basics at Fatty Crab. But nothing about Fatty Crab is basic.
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Some restaurants demand that diners deny themselves. They are islands of restraint. For the past forty years chefs have retreated from a cuisine of excess. Classic haute cuisine was based on the assumption that if you asked about the calories, you can't afford them.
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Fatty Crab is chef Zak Pelaccio’s casual Malaysian spinoff. His other restaurant, the more upscale and expensive 5 Ninth, is just steps away, in the center of the Meatpacking District.
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Chef Zac Pelaccio has plenty of street cred. His restaurant 5 Ninth is a success, and people still talk about his dearly departed Chickenbone Café. He also once lived in Malaysia, picking up techniques and ingredients many other chefs are afraid to touch. Still, it was pretty ballsy of him to open up Fatty Crab, a casual establishment dedicated to the street stall foods of that country. Chinatown is full of Malaysian joints that serve up dishes just as sweat-inducing and funky. Why go to Fatty Crab instead, where the Meatpacking District portions and prices are smaller and higher, respectively?
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Chef Zak Pelaccio and his partner from Five Ninth, Rick Camac, have opened a snug and funky wood-cloaked joint that is an ode to the food Zak learned to cook (and to love) while cooking at Seri Melayu, an authentic restaurant in the center of the Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia (he was the first Westerner to work there). Fatty Crab is for a place he used to frequent on his days off, a joint he adored for their saucy chicken wings and fiery chili crab. He’s opened his own version of Fatty Crab here on Hudson Street, which I had a chance to check out last week with my friend Steven, and I thought it was just smashing.
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