My college friend Kristen of the food blog Give Me Some Food came to town recently with her mother and the two of them were kind enough to take me and our friend Ricky out to dine at a wine lover's dream restaurant: Veritas.
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Whenever I fly, I think about New York restaurants. The same economic malaise that has turned jets into cattle cars has transformed many restaurants, even those with soaring aspirations, into sardine cans. Perhaps one can understand this desire with downtown boîtes like Prune, Momofuku, or Fatty Crab where sweat is part of the equity, yet the intimacy of strangers can be quite disconcerting at a restaurant like Veritas with its $76 three-course prix fixe and its tempting and extensive reserve list. Veritas is a restaurant where one can easily spend $200+/person, yet hear more of one's neighbors' conversations than that of one's partner. With tables tightly arranged along a banquette, the acoustics are not designed for private intimacies.
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Veritas is a now seven-year-old restaurant built around a pretty amazing wine collection of what the current vernacular calls hedonistic wines. There are huge Californians, trophy Bordeaux, and quite a collection of Rhones, along with a chef who seems to be creating a simple cuisine to support the list but, in fact, has created food that makes some of the best wines of the world better for their association
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Let's face it: wine is intimidating. Between the vintages, vineyards and varietals, it's a serious subject for sensitive palates. Even more than with food, there seems to be an endlessly expanding number of options. And perhaps, most prohibitively, the price of bottles can range anywhere from cheap entrée to college education. Determined to add to our oenophilic educations though, Vince and I ventured into the Grape Escape, a tannin-drenched sequel to May's Vintage Bar Crawl.
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If a passion for wine runs through your veins, then a visit to Veritas should be considered mandatory. At this stylish, Gramercy Park gem, you’ll find a magnificent wine list that, at last count, was 2,700 bottles long. (Lots of Tylenol should be on hand if you tackle even part of this list.) Despite its intimidating length, wine neophytes should not be deterred. There is no fear factor here. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable and all too happy to help find a suitable wine to match your meal and price point (bottles range from $20 to $1300). And while wine is the primary draw for Veritas, the food, created by the talented Scott Bryant, gives the list a run for its money. The restaurant’s contemporary American menu is easy to love: robust flavors, seasonal ingredients, and perfect technique.
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