I wanted to give an oenophile friend the perfect birthday dinner. After mulling (no pun intended) over the excellent Veritas and I Trulli, I instead brought her to The Tasting Room NYC, which features a visible wine cellar. What a wonderful choice this turned out to be!
We sat at a cork table in one of the large back rooms. Although there was an intriguing cocktail menu with exotic ingredients
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I've been hearing about the Tasting Room for years now, usually in conversations with "foodies." You know the general line of questioning: "Just went to X. Have you been?" "Oh yeah. The meatballs are out of this world. Almost as good as Y's." "But not as good as the Tasting Room." "The Tasting Room!" "Love the Tasting Room!" "Love!" At which point I usually fall silent. Since I've never been to Tasting Room, the once-tiny, now relocated restaurant that cooks with the freshest Greenmarket ingredients, I am unable to step up to this gourmet throwdown.
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The Tasting Room, formerly on First Avenue, have moved into their new digs on Elizabeth just south of Houston a little over a month ago. They are located in a space that used to be inhabited by a strange and quirky store called Plate that served food and sold clothes. Good idea but not well executed. Strange place.
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I’m gonna be straight with you. It’s not the same as it was. The Tasting Room, in its new expanded location, is decidedly different. And that’s good in some ways and not so good in others.
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I am separating this review from the original restaurant’s because a new location deserves a new writeup. Renée and Colin Alevras’ new space is definitely bigger than the one on 1st and First. The wine bottles have their own room now and a beautiful sliding stable door opens up in the back. Because I went during their first trial night, I wasn’t sure if it will be another dining area or if it will remain as a storage room. (Stay tuned to find out!) Past the bar and sitting area in front, the new digs open up to a roomier space. The lighting is warm and comfortable that dining in there made us forget it was the hottest day of the year outside.
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I have kvetched about what I label Disappearing Chef Syndrome; where is a chef when one needs him? Cooking is a worker's occupation, not a skill for management. On this score I find no fault with the Tasting Room, Colin (and Renee) Alevras's Lower East Side bite-size restaurant, a prime contributor to the remarkable restaurant renaissance in that formerly blighted corner of the city, along with Prune, Thor, WD-50, Schiller's, and 71 Clinton Fresh Food, making this perhaps New York's most exciting culinary neighborhood outside of ethnic Queens. East First Street was once no man's land, a deserted boulevard of crack, smack, and hopelessness, Buildings could not be given away. Nightmares trumped location, but no longer.
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When people ask me for my Top Five restaurants in New York City, I rank Sushiden on five, Tom Colicchio’s Gramercy Tavern on four, Snack on three (because I eat there at least three times a month) and Mario Batali’s Babbo in second place. I usually get a reaction when I tell them that The Tasting Room ranks first because it’s either they have never heard of it or because the proprietors are more famous at the farmers’ market than they are on FoodTV.
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One errant fanny, sideswiping a glass full of wine, could set off a chain reaction at this place, sending it into a tumultuous, possibly dire, game of Twister.
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