Low and Behold, Tom Colicchio's Meatpacking Gem Continues to Shine At first glance, it's likely a neighborhood you wouldn't "stumble" upon. Tucked behind the Chelsea Market on a spooky block of 10th Avenue lies craftsteak, one of three quality restaurants located about 200 feet apart (Del Posto and Morimoto sharing the spotlight). It's an area of the Meatpacking District that doesn't get a lot of casual foot traffic. To those of you who live below midtown, you are likely laughing at my geographical apprehension, but being an Upper Westsider, this block might as well be Siberia. That said, for food this good, Siberia is nice this...
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Craftsteak is not exactly a restaurant on my to-eat-at list, but when big brother is footing the bill, how do I say no? In fact, I might even like Tom Colicchio. He seems like a pompous tool on Top Chef, but he doesn't irk me in the way that most celebrity chefs do. Plus, I love 'Wichcraft. Craftsteak is super sleek and housed in a cavernous space. Before you can ponder a guess as to how much Colicchio and his investors must be paying in rent, you realize that you are going to help him make his rent in a very big way.
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In an interesting turn of events, it seems that Shane McBride has curiously emerged from the kitchen at Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak. That's right, ladies and gentlemen. Chef de cuisine Chris Albrecht has left the building (a month ago). After opening the original Vegas Crafsteak, Chris Albrecht brought the king-size steakhouse concept to New York City's Meatpacking District. Even with the recent onslaught of couture cuts available to mostly expense account clientele, few designer steakhouses could boast a steak sommelier and a menu that changes daily. Still, Craftsteak has suffered a string of...
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i ate dinner made in front of me by chef tom colicchio at craftsteak restaurant in chelsea. this was 2 nights ago on the occasion of the chef and his chef de cuisine damon wise (who cooks at craft) “cooking” for a week at the raw bar at craftsteak. it was a 13 course tasting menu created by the chef himself wielding a very long sharp knife as he made the first 11 raw fish crudo courses for us. i was brought there by a friend who was a close foodie & vino friend of steve plotnicki, the creator of the “opinionated about dining” blog. steve devotes his time to eating at the finest restaurants all over the world and is well known among top chefs on two continents. so here i am sitting in between my friend and steve at the bar in the cavernous craftsteak, with tom colicchio on the other side of the counter, cooking for and serving only the three of us. just a couple of weeks ago when my friend and i ate at morimoto, he was telling me about how he and steve had dinner there and morimoto cooked for them. i said that when he eats with steve, the chefs go all out to impress steve and that regular people do not get the same treatment, nor the same meal because most celebrity chefs of this caliber have other restaurants, and between their tv appearances (tom colicchio’s show is top chef) and opening new restaurants, no longer have time to cook at their restaurants . except when steve plotnicki shows up for dinner.
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This week, I head meals at two steakhouses I’ve reviewed before: Wolfgang’s TriBeCa and Craftsteak. Both appear to be midlly struggling restaurants, although for different reasons. Wolfgang’s had lengthy opening delays. I’ve been in there twice now, and while the restaurant certainly doesn’t seem to be failing in any sense, it certainly doesn’t have the heavy crowds that the original Wolfgang’s did. It appears you can walk in just about any time and get a table.
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Thanks to a recent promotion by my favorite credit card American Express (and no, I have nothing to disclose, I actually really do like the card - "Membership Changes Everything!"), I won a "private party" dinner for four at a restaurant that I would have never gone to otherwise, Tom Collichio's meat house, craftsteak, in the ironically coined NoMeat (North Meat Packing) district.
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So many new steakhouses, so little time. That’s the feeling I have these days, with high-profile steakhouses opening almost weekly. Craftsteak is special, being a creation of the sainted Tom Colicchio (Gramercy Tavern, Craft, Craftbar, Craftsteak Las Vegas, etc.).
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As the dirt continues to settle from the onslaught of mega-restaurants fashioned with sky high ceilings, super-sized Buddhas and Asian fusion fancies, the Meatpacking District has overnight become a Vegas-like restaurant row. A disappointing visit to the much-anticipated opening of Buddha Bar (official American outpost of the infamous French hotspot) which included less than mediocre sushi, out of place lamb chops that spoke to neither my French nor Asian sensibilities, and an offensively microscopic droplet of tasteless tuna tartare, caused me to dismiss the Meatpacking District as an aural amusement park with very short culinary legs to stand on
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I love Tom Colicchio, and probably always will. Tom and his restaurant Gramercy Tavern were both very pivotal in my transmutation from a guy who loved food and wine, to a guy who may think about food and wine a little too much. "Think Like a Chef" was the first cookbook I ever read cover to cover like a novel, and while I was doing it I would lunch at Gramercy, allowing me to get a real feel for what I would be doing at home later on.
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