With executive chef Tyson Ophaso leaving the restaurant and with dim sum chef Joe Eng taking the complete helm, I'm very interested in seeing how he leaves his mark on the place.
I ate lunch recently at the Chinatown Brasserie with Brian Yarvin, a terrific writer and photography who's just written a fun but substantial The World of Dumplings (Countryman Press). More about Brian and his book in another post, because after...
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I returned, for dim sum. New York Magazine gave Chinatown Brasserie the nod for being the best dim sum in town. They could be right. We went this past Sunday. You order off the menu vs. the people carting the...
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i had peking turkey for thanksgiving ….. what exactly is a peking turkey you ask ? chinatown brasserie has re-created the thanksgiving turkey in the image of its peking duck. traditionally, chinese people were never big on turkey, not to mention that there was no such thing as thanksgiving in china. this would account for why there is no turkey on chinese restaurant menus, which is fine with me considering that the peking duck is one of the greatest inventions in culinary history. that glazed crackling skin, the tasty duck meat with the plummy hoisin sauce and scallions wrapped in the warm pancakes ………..
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We’ve covered Chinatown Brasserie before — but as it was the first night of service, the complete Dim Sum menu wasn’t yet fully established, and I wanted to try more. This last weekend, prompted by Frank Bruni’s perplexing 1-star review (which I can’t in good conscience agree with) I had Sunday dim sum at the restaurant with my wife and four friends.
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With the humidity pressing down on the city like a hot wet sponge, I thought I’d bring you back a few months to that most wonderfully frigid time of the year: Christmas. I’ve being thinking about Christmas a lot recently, after many, many fun (and delicious) meals at Chinatown Brasserie, the newest restaurant from Lever House and Lure Fishbar partners John McDonald and Josh Pickard. Why Christmas? Because it is the night of my annual Chinese Banquet—an yearly eating and kvetching conference of all my Jewish friends and anyone else who feels like ditching their families and celebrating Hanukah, Kwanza, and/or Festivus. I am going to reserve the private room as soon as I finish writing this.
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I am not really sure how to begin. Chinatown Brasserie opened with not a huge amount of hoopla. I didn't realize they were connected with Lure and Lever House until I went and saw the cards from their other restaurants where the hostess stands.
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Nothing like Chinatown, this dramatically vibrant space possesses more opulence than all of the gritty Canal Street haunts stacked together. Set in a generous space (formerly Time Cafe), the latest Asian-inspired bistro arrives on New York's restaurant scene with all of the mammoth-sized Chinese trimmings - red Chinese lanterns, antique mirrors, red & black leather banquettes, painted screens, a swanky downstairs dining lounge & a koi pond. Despite the hoopla and eery similarity to countless other Asian newbies, Chinatown Brasserie succeeds, where the others have failed, to elevate Chinese to new culinary heights with market-driven twists on Cantonese classics. What Keith McNally has done for French fare (Balthazar & Pastis), John McDonald & Josh Pickard (Lever House & Lure) are about to do for Chinese cuisine.
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Last night I was lucky enough to get into Chinatown Brasserie on its first night of service. It’s a beautiful, huge indoor space, seating about 400 people, serving what I would probably call “Tweaked” American Chinese food with interesting twists, along with very hardcore Hong Kong Dim Sum. The menu and restaurant concept was refined by the legendary Eddie Schoenfeld, a restaurant consultant well known for his involvement in four star Chinese restaurants during the 1970’s (click for podcast). There are two complete kitchens, one dedicated entirely to Dim Sum production under Chef Joe Ng and the other a full kitchen for main dishes and Chinese barbecue under Executive Chef Tyson Ophaso, a Thai-born ethnic Chinese chef who has trained under 3-Star Michelin Chef Claude Troisgros. During the day and on weekends, the restaurant is slated to produce over 40 different selections of Dim Sum, using Joe Ng’s reported repertoire of over 1000 varieties.
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