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blaue gans

By food. new york (and affiliates).   Jan 16, 2007

so in procrastinating and inspecting my newly “public” and “stalker-friendly” restaurant reminiscing for some form of propriety, i realized that i never posted about brunch at blaue gans. my gosh! what a delinquent i am. FULL REVIEW

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Blaue Gans

By Big Apple Dining Guide   Jan 16, 2007

I took advantage of the lunch break they gave us today (I was on Jury Duty), by dining at a restaurant usually out of my way, yet near the top of my list of places to try...Blaue Gans (Blue Goose). FULL REVIEW

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Blaue Gans

By New York Journal   Jan 07, 2007

This time last year, it looked like super-chef Kurt Gutenbrunner was veering dangerously close to over-exposure. Within three months, his two-restaurant empire (Wallsé, Cafe Sabarsky) doubled, opening THOR on the Lower East Side in September 2005 and Blaue Gans in TriBeCa in December. FULL REVIEW

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Blaue Gans

By Pabulum   Dec 18, 2006

After two bottles of wine at the Monday Room inside Public Restaurant, eleven of us had dinner at Blaue Gans for my early birthday celebration. We were seated in the middle of the room, a long table arranged with decorative wreaths and surrounded by vintage posters from former tenant Le Zinc. Blaue Gans doesn’t take reservations but because my initial plans at Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner’s other restaurant, Wallsé, could not be accommodated by the staff, they nicely arranged for my gathering to be held in Blaue Gans instead. FULL REVIEW

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Blaue Gans

By Mona's Apple   Aug 21, 2006

My roommates and I live together, but are all rarely home together, and it's even more rare that we all have the same night free to hang out outside our humble abode. LarchmontLass initiated a rendez-vous for us and a few other friends. After several dead end emails of "You can pick the place." "No, you." "Here's another place we can try." "Well how about this place?" the guest of honor Sharktale leaving town the next morning finally said, "Let's go to the Yard." Amen. So, thanks to NYMetro's recommendation of places to eat outside, we went. FULL REVIEW

Restaurant Critic Discovers Phenomenal Soft Pretzels

By Ed Levine Eats   Apr 08, 2006

It's really interesting to find out what you learn when you dine at the same restaurant two days in a row. You begin to see what it's like to be a restaurant critic at a serious publication like the New York Times, New York Magazine or the Los Angeles Times. Publications of that caliber give their critics the financial resources and the time to visit restaurants at least three times before writing their review. So I had my Frank Bruni (currently the restaurant critic at the NY Times) moment this week when I ate dinner on consecutive nights at the "newish" casual German restaurant (maybe gastropub would be a better descriptor), Blaue Gans, owned by chef-restaurateur Kurt Gutenbrunner, who also co-owns Wallse,Thor, and Cafe Sabarsky. At dinner on Thursday night, I loved just about everything we ate at Blaue Gans. The Burenwurst was a pork and beef sausage positively bursting with flavor, accompanied by delicious sauerkraut, a not too spicy mustard and pungent horseradish. The bread that showed up at our table was kind of a limp, wan version of German dark rye bread, and even though it was accompanied by a tasty, smooth liptauer spread (made of farmer's cheese, paprika, and onion) we ordered a pretzel to accompany our sausage and the terrific smoked trout that was more terrine than filet. The pretzel was a revelation: crisp enough on the outside, tender on the inside, with just enough interior and exterior salt. If it had been baked a little longer I would have declared it the best soft pretzel I have ever eaten. Our main dishes were a mixed bag. The meaty part of the roasted pork belly tasted great, but beneath the meat was a three inch slab of fat. Now I love pork belly, and I love fat, but I definitely would have preferred some of that fat to be rendered in the cooking process. The Jager Schnitzel, on the other hand, was a very successful cholesterol festival of a dish: pounded pork in a creamy sauce made with veal stock topped by bacon and mushrooms. And the spaetzle that accompanied the schnitzel was perfect, firm and slightly chewy with the right amount of buttery give. The Swiss cheese plate was a waste of time and calories, but the fried quark (cheese) dumplings on a pool of rhubarb compote were ethereally light and crunchy on the outside, and cooked through on the inside. The next night the pretzel and the sauerkraut were just as delicious, but the spaetzle was limp and overcooked. Perfect spaetzle one night, steam table quality spaetzle the next. How do you explain that? I saw the chef-owner there both nights, so that doesn't explain it. Potato salad was underseasoned, the boiled beef shoulder wasn't particularly tender or flavorful, and needed six shakes of salt to bring it to life, and the wiener schnitzel's crisp crust separated from the pork inside it way too easily. It didn't have the cosmic oneness between crust and flesh a great piece of fried chicken or pork should. The apple strudel was buttery and wonderful, and it came with a hillock of schlog. Two other fine desserts were the Salzburger Nockerl, cloud-like meringues perched atop a huckleberry compote, and the kaiserschmarren (sounds like a Mel Brooks invention), tender, slightly spongy little pancakes made just sweet enough by powdered sugar on top, that don't need the dull-tasting apple compote that comes with it. I hope the next time I go back (which will be soon, as this is a fun restaurant to be in) the spaetzl will be up to snuff, and the beef shoulder will be more tender and flavorful. FULL REVIEW

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