The small plate revolution that has overtaken the city hasn’t missed a neighborhood, and ‘inoteca, on the Lower East Side looks a lot like the movement’s official base of operations. A casual Italian wine bar with large picture windows that can, in good weather, be thrown open to the narrow sidewalks of Rivington and Ludlow Streets, ‘intoteca sits on a formerly sleepy corner that now watches the insomniac LES scene with wide and over-caffeinated eyes. Restaurants and watering holes abound, but ‘inoteca, which opened in 2003, distinguishes itself through its simple, satisfying menu and a prodigious wine list that features wines from practically every single nook and cranny of Italy (including the Islands–all of them).
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In a single day in Manhattan, I managed to get two very different tastes of the city's imported Italian culture. I spent the last few days of my trip to New York with the Millers: Annie, my dear friend from college, and her husband Eric, a New York native and consummate culinary enthusiast. Obviously a stellar combination. They are truly great hosts: it seems they are tourists in their own city. They are on top of all the goings on across the five bourroughs, and as summer sends everyone outdoors with festivals, concerts, and other excuses to frolic in the sun, Annie and Eric are there, camera and flip-flops in tow.
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But my, my how things have changed. I won’t go as far as comparing the rebirth of the Lower East Side (or coming out I should say) to what has happened in Chelsea or even Hell’s Kitchen… but the truth is with the opening and success of The Hotel on Rivington as well as a half a dozen other outposts, well, the Lower East Side is da bomb.
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Even though it's close by, I don't take enough advantage of all the fooding opportunities in the Lower East Side. Patricia, my fooding partner for the afternoon, said she felt like she's missed out on one and a half years of possible good eats. Our plan? TO MAKE UP FOR THIS GASTRONOMIC MONSTROSITY, ASAP.
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TEAM EDOW arrives at 'inoteca. HOSTESS tells us kindly that we may wait at the bar, our table will be ready shortly. We drink in the atmosphere -- large, bustling room, festive LES crowd, dark wood, delicious looking bowl of olives and exciting looking cheese spread in the glass enclosed work area. 'inoteca has received raves from several of TEAM EDOW's friends.
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