Those of us who write about restaurants lavish more attention on openings than on closings. But there are times when we should pause and take note of a restaurant’s departure, especially when the restaurant has a real, meaningful legacy.
FULL REVIEW
I feel compelled to note for the record that I tried 71 Clinton Fresh Food a couple of weeks ago. It’s part of the gaggle of high-end Lower East Side eateries that have opened in recent years. Star chef Wylie Dufresne made his name here, but Dufresne hopped across the street to the award-winning WD-50.
FULL REVIEW
There are certain people in this world that are quite difficult to replace. Think Nathan Lane in the Producers, Janet Jackson at the Super Bowl, Manolo Blahnik on the feet, and Wylie Dufresne in the kitchen. Attempts can be made, but comparisons are unavoidable and the replacement usually comes up short. Indeed, when Wylie left 71 Clinton to venture out with his dad Dewey and open WD50, the task of replacing him was not an enviable one. And yet the able owners (Tony, Janet, and Dennis) found a talented chef with Matt Renguin, who he did a terrific job of maintaining 71 Clinton’s place in the warm sun. Last month though, Matt moved up to Connecticut with his wife, to try on a simpler life, and the owners along with Alex Miranda, the general manager and sommelier (ex-Washington Park, Blue Hill) started their search once again, aiming to find a unique character for their spare little outpost on Clinton Street. Their search landed them a brilliant new voice, a young chef who expresses various levels of genius in his startlingly inventive cooking.
FULL REVIEW
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