Today (the 18th) was my birthday and last night (the 17th) I celebrated with friends at New Green Bo in Chinatown. It was a perfect venue: the table squeezed all fourteen of us in cozily and the food was bountiful,...
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We’ve been having a rash of seriously cold weather in the NY Metro area in the last week or so. The snow hasn’t managed to stick to the ground, but its definitely freezing outside — making one long for sunnier, warmer climates. While I can’t go to the Meditterranean this month, I can certainly bring it to my dinner table, so recently I decided to have another go at Shish Taouk, a type of Lebanese chicken kebab. I made some earlier in the summer, but I had gotten some advice from Elie Nassar on how to make it taste more authentic.
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I am embarrassed. I have lived in New York for two years now and how often have I taken advantage of the cultural opportunities just outside my door? How often have I journeyed up to Queens for Greek food or to try the famous arepas from the mythical arepa lady? How many Indian supermarkets have I been to? How many jaunts have I made to Chinatown?
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It’s always a delicate task to review restaurants to which friends have enthusiastically taken you. I’ll admit: I dislike raining on people’s parade, particularly in the food category, where tastes and perceptions of quality differ greatly from person to person. However, I’ve got to be honest in this case: I didn’t think New Green Bo (Bayard between Mott and Elizabeth) was all that great.
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I have been eating at Chinese restaurants for a half century: every Jewish child's birthrite, our mess of pottage. There are many mysteries in eating Chinese food for those who are not restaurant brats, the offspring of the owners and staff. One that I have puzzled about for decades is what I describe as "menu excess." The question is one of how and why.
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So much of what I love about New York City food is connected in some way to Chinatown. Mott Street both above and below Canal Street must be my favorite place to wander in all five boroughs– it’s a kaleidoscope of experience, different every time I visit. It’s a real sensory assault, but one that never fails to remind me of how much there is to see, taste, and smell in this world. My favorite bubble tea shops are on this stretch, and so is my hole-in-the-wall Chinese cafeteria of choice. Bayard Street bisects Mott Street just south of Canal in a messy, crowded intersection that features a Haagen Dazs that looks as out of place here as would a spaceship, but heading East on Bayard is the key to some of this area’s best Shanghai cooking.
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