I kicked off Restaurant Week (back on Tuesday, January 22nd) with lunch with my three girl friends: Giulia, Seungmi, and Helen, at Devi. Yep, we’re exploring into realm of haute Indian cuisine since what we’ve encounter in our pasts were heavy, greasy, fire breathing-spicy Indian food. We had high hopes for this place since I’ve [...]
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When I dine in other cities, which has been considerable this month (Chicago, New Orleans and New York), I can't help making comparisons to what I find in the Bay Area, whether it's Alinea and ...
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Indian cuisine, like Chinese, Mexican, and Italian, can be found in New York just about everywhere you look. Nine out of ten offer the standard dishes that you could name in your sleep. But the truly memorable Indian restaurants are rare. Dévi, which opened in 2004, is one of these. It earned two stars from Frank Bruni, which is almost the high-water mark for an Indian restaurant, as only Tabla carries three. This year, the Michelin Guide agreed, awarding a star — one of the few granted to a restaurant not serving European (or Euro-inspired) cuisine.
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Devi is a restaurant that I had been meaning to dine at for the last two years, but just never gotten around to it. And that’s a shame, because I now feel that I had been missing out all this time. In my estimation its in the very top tier of the best Indian restaurants in New York City and fully deserves all the accolades its been getting in the press and elsewhere.
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Devi is such a romantic setting; they make wonderful use of antique window screens and carved arches for their decor. The vibrantly colored hanging lamps, patchwork velvet banquettes, dim lighting and draped silks set the stage for a lovely dinner. There is also seating in the upstairs balcony.
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Most of the Indian restaurants in New York are either cheesy-- all Christmas lights and Bollywood music blaring-- or so stuffy and quiet that you feel like you've just entered a funeral parlor; Devi fits nicely in between those two extremes and fills a void for delicious Indian food in a fun, tasteful setting.
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It took several courses before I "got" Devi, the mbitious Indian restaurant, set smack in the Union Square restaurant district. I had considered Devi and Tabla as rough equals in New York's culinary space. Indeed, both have tasting menus and according to Zagat's their price points are not vastly different (outside Z's world, the difference is significantly wider, with Devi the less expensive). Restaurants may gain or suffer by these implicit comparisons, hard to shake.
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It is very easy to get stuck in a rut of favorite places, eating nineteen out of twenty meals at one of five restaurants. It just happens, especially if you are lucky enough to live in a neighborhood that has Cru, Babbo, Otto, Blue Hill, Gotham, Lupa, and Strip House all within four or five blocks. So when Urchin, Bear and I decided to actually plan a dinner a little ahead of time, we decided to try someplace different. Here is what a rut I sink into: when I was asked, I suggested we go the whole two blocks over to Gusto because I hadn't been there yet in '06. Thankfully, Urchin vetoed in the interest of diversifying and Bear chose Devi.
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I went back to Devi last night for a second time. If you like Indian food, this is the place to go. Incredible tastes, artfully done, great flavor, spices that zing. A total wow. Everything around us was raving too so I am not sure you can go wrong with what you order.
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Of course I have a list of restaurants that I really want to check out this summer. Devi has been on the list for quite a while. I finally got there last night.
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Cashew Roll (amuse), Manchurian Cauliflower, Tandoor Grilled Jamison Farm Lamb Chops with Pear Chutney and Curry Leaf Potatoes, Mango Cheesecake, a Palindrome (OP Aquavit, fresh pear cider, essence of ginger, Poire Williams, served up with a Bosc pear slice soaked in Navan vanilla cognac), two glasses of a Millbrook Cabernet
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Devi is easy to miss. I walk down that block often, and I had not noticed it until the other night when someone opened the door, letting the scent of cardamom, chiles, cumin, and cinnamon float out onto the dark cold sidewalk like a warm ray of lost sunlight. It stopped me in my tracks. I peered inside and spied a mesmerizing, sari-clothed room—an Indian temple as restaurant. I had discovered Devi.
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