After reading about Craft for years, I’ve always thought about eating here but hating the fact that they don’t serve lunch, except at its sister branch Craftbar. That’s until I read from the NY Times’ blog, The Diner’s Journal that Craft started to serve lunch again.
Interior photos
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Lunch isn’t my preferred meal. More than a little bit of food in the middle of the day sometimes makes me sleepy, and getting a proper sense of a restaurant usually means eating more than a little bit of food.
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Craft is one of New York’s iconic restaurants. The name "Craft" was suggested by chef Tom Colicchio’s concept of of preparing "expert ingredients, expertly and simply." Colicchio adds that "simple doesn’t mean simplistic." It is, in other words, the "craft" of getting the simple things right. Trite, perhaps, but it has been a huge and much-imitated success. Craftbar in Manhattan and Craftsteak in Las Vegas are popular spin-offs, and a new branch of Craftsteak is opening on Tenth Avenue later this spring.
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The Second Most Momentous Meeting of Food Bloggers EVER: Derrick "An Obsession With Food" [plus wife!] & Adam "Amateur Gourmet" Dine at Craft
Those reading since June will remember the first most momentous meeting of food bloggers ever when I dined with Clotilde "Chocolate & Zucchini" at Babbo. Before that I met Danny "A Year In Food" at The Bar Room at The Modern. So that was kind of momentous too. But at the time I didn't think to call it "momentous" so Danny doesn't get momentous status, but he's in Europe so he'll barely notice. And so the meal I had last night with Derrick "An Obsession with Food" and his lovely wife Melissa will henceforth be known as the Second Most Momentous Meeting of Food Bloggers Ever. Here we are at the end of our meal, aren't we cute?
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As a tagline to his online food essays Steve Plotnicki adds provocatively, "It's okay to like Salieri more than Mozart, but it's not okay to think that he's better than Mozart." An aesthetic puzzle that deserves unpacking.
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I don't care what anyone says - it is almost impossible to beat the best NYC dining. Case in point is Craft, located on 19th between Park Avenue & Broadway. The place is crazy good. The menu is 100% a la carte, which is great for small dish lovers. If there are even 2 other people with you you can taste 10 or so dishes. And they all rock - it's broken up into cooking methods - braising, roasting, etc. and there are several meat, fish, and veggie options for each.
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My relationship with Craft got off to a rocky start. While the restaurant was getting a lot of good press, my first few meals weren’t that impressive. In fact, I pretty much wrote the restaurant off as one of those places that was liked by a less discriminating diner than I imagined myself to be. I also criticized the way chef/owner Tom Colicchio had deconstructed upper-middle cuisine, turning it into a modern-day version of an à la carte steakhouse; further, Colicchio’s deployment of the “great ingredients prepared simply” strategy didn’t always bear fruit. On certain days the ingredients could be terrific, but on other days not much better than average. And as is occasionally typical of ingredient-driven restaurants, sometimes the food seemed overly plain. One of the first meals I had at Craft seemed to encapsulate this particular problem—an order of softshell crabs was delicious, but the roast baby lamb didn't have much flavor and was tough.
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Venison and Chestnut Terrine, some of Pat's Foie Gras Pate, Veal Breast with Assorted Mushrooms, some of Pat's Chatam Cod with Potato Gnocchi, Banana Tarte Tatin and Calvados Spice Ice Cream,
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What a contrast to Cru! We arrived early and were seated 20 minutes after our reservation time. With a very active 2-year-old, that’s pretty well instant death. The service was more attitude than anything. Curt is a good word. The second waiter/busboy was much more friendly than the waiter and more visible so we started ordering from him what we required. We were never asked if our food was satisfactory – which it wasn’t.
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Meg and I went to Craft earlier this week. The restaurant's schtick is to present fresh food as simply as possible. The heirloom tomatoes were sliced, salted, peppered, and placed on a white dish with a wee bit of basil. The wild salmon came with a few onions, making it the most accented dish of the evening. The striped bass was served braised in its own juices with a couple of carrots. Plain sautéed hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. The lamb shank was served alone in its own juices, still in the container it was cooked in. Green beans, unbuttered. Mashed potatoes, lightly buttered. Cinnamon and chocolate donuts on a simple white plate. A single slice of brioche pain perdu with small pitchers of caramel and chocolate to flavor it. I enjoyed the no-nonsense presentation, but the tastes were a little too spare for my, um, taste. Verdict: The food was great, the novelty of the preparation was fun, but I don't think I'd go again.
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LINK: http://www.blogsoop.com/nyc_rid_4116.html
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