Ah, the upper west side, you keep surprising me. ‘cesca has been on our list of places to eat for the past year because Cameron lives around the corner. After Telepan, I’m more confident to pick a restaurant in the upper west side even if it bills itself as a family-owned Italian restaurant. (I don’t have any good experiences to write about family-owned Italian restaurants in Little Italy and the space next door has turned over more than I can count.) The ‘cesca menu looked good the first time I read it from the outside of the restaurant and it looked good the night we visited. Four of us were seated in the wine nook; a table fit for ten became our own private space for three hours. The sommelier, a giant with a short ponytail, selected for us a light red wine after our glasses of Prosecco.
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Mention the word ‘Cesca to anyone with a passing knowledge of NYC food and you’ll most probably hear the something like the following sentence: “Tom Valenti’s the chef of that place, right?” Well, yes, and then no. Valenti, the braised lamb shank king, opened ‘Cesca three years ago, an Italian follow-up to his impossibly popular Ouest, his rustic New American gem a few blocks away. But Valenti departed earlier this year to focus his time on Ouest alone and left the restaurant without a captain. There was a period of chef searching, and then the owners brought in Kevin Garcia, former chef de cuisine of Del Posto, who attributes his knowledge of Tuscan cooking to Maremma’s Cesare Casella. Garcia’s pedigree made him the ideal candidate this popular yet soulful Upper West Side Italian. He spent a year cooking with Mark Ladner at Lupa, and worked at Jean George’s Prime at the Bellagio for two years.
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My friend and I had dinner at ’Cesca a couple of Fridays ago. I was sporting a 101-degree fever and wasn’t in the mood for fine dining, but we had an opera to catch, so there we were.
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Went to Valenti's new Upper West Side enoteca/trattoria called 'Cesca. Gorgeous spot. Started at the bar with a house drink called 'Cesca 75, a riff on the French 75. ('Cesca's on 75th Street - Get it?) The amiable bartender combined sugar, Campari and Champage. Mmmm. Just enough of a bitter edge to seem like a true apertivo.
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Tom Valenti is like Santa Claus for the Upper West Side—bringing culinary treats for all the good neighbors pushing their baby-bugees and strolling along Columbus Avenue totting lattes and H&H Bagels. I rarely leave my downtown abode and travel upstate to the burbs of Central Park, but for Ouest and ‘Cesca (where Valenti’s chef de cuisine Amanda Freitag is finally getting to strut her stuff), I’ll make the trip. Just a couple of notes before traveling: Go very hungry, and preferably after a long run or workout. You will want to eat everything on the menu, and if at all possible, you should, so it’s best to have the tummy nice and empty so it can be filled all the way up. And while a reservation is nice, the warm, chocolate-toned bar, decked out in dark wood with amber lighting, is a perfect place to sit awhile, drinks some wine, and nosh (read: pig out).
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