I've eaten at Country, Jeffrey Zakarian's restaurant in the Carlton Hotel, a number of times since that's usually the hotel I stay at while in NY. I hadn't been particulary impressed until this trip when, while waiting for my car to JFK, I decided to grab a quick bite at the bar. I ordered the clam chowder which is served ceremoniously by the waiter who pours a small carafe of clam broth and heavy cream into a bowl filled with freshly cooked clams and small chunks of smokey bacon. Enough said. Even better though was the Tuna Pizzette, an open-faced tuna sandwich with alternating strips of sourdough bread topped with sashimi-grade raw tuna on half of the pieces and what must have been olive oil-poached albacore on the others. All of this was garnished with thinly sliced, slender long French radishes, some fresh greens and a little fleur de sel. Now that's a tuna sandwich.
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manhattan is full of fabulous food , from great cubanos to crackling foie gras brulee, and gourmet food meccas like balducci’s, fairway and whole foods are sprinkled around the city. none of them seem to be in my neighborhood. the gramercy/flatiron area is home to many foodie faves like craft, devi, gramercy tavern, casa mono, beppe, tocqueville,blt fish, while further north there is l’impero and sushi yasuda which is the start of the roster of name chef restaurants on the upper east side. i live in the culinary wasteland in between. yes there is 11 madison park and tabla which are both on madison but it’s still a bit over to the west.
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5
Good Old Country Comfort at Country (Plus: I am EXPOSED!)
I've been campaigning for Country for a while. My parents didn't want to go because a hotel concierge advised them against it, but I won the battle last week when they came to town. It was a rainy, ugly Wednesday night and Craig and I made the journey from Brooklyn to meet my parents at Country's home in the Carlyle hotel on 28th and Madison. Upon entering, we were both way impressed with the digs. "Whoah, awesome," said Craig (that's a direct quote.) Here's a blurry bad picture of the hotel lobby:
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How long do you think that bone is?” my dinner companion asked me as we took our seats in the upstairs dining room at Country, Geoffrey Zakarian’s supremely civilized eating salon. I looked at it. It was long. “Maybe 13 inches?” I replied, taking a stab in the dark. He shook his head. “No darling. I think it’s more like 18 inches.” He smiled. I smiled. Our wine was poured. Things were off to a rare start.
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A reader recently wrote me — and I’m talking old-fashioned snail mail — to raise a question and complaint about an experience he had in the upstairs dining room at Country, which is in the Carlton Hotel on Madison Avenue near East 29th Street.
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The servers at Country, Chef Geoffrey Zakarian's new hotel restaurant, think of themselves as representatives of a glorious, dramatic, luxe restaurant. And they are right. Someone should inform the kitchen. All too often, such as A Voce, the creativity of the cooks leaves the servers in the dust, but at Country it is the food that requires panache. The service at this newly opened restaurant at the Carlton Hotel near Madison Park is as slick, convivial, and confident as that at any four star restaurant. The kitchen's handiwork, while never failing, lacks the flair of genius.
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Like a number of upscale restaurants (Gramercy Tavern, Aquavit, Jean Georges, The Modern, BLT Fish), Geoffrey Zakarian’s new restaurant Country has an upscale dining room attached to an informal sister establishment that offers a similar but less elaborate menu in humbler surroundings. My friend and I tried the Café at Country a few months ago, and we weren’t impressed. It was loud, uncomfortable, and pretentious
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When you order a burger in a fancypants environment and it turns out to be great, it's a sure sign that the fancypants chef in charge of the kitchen loves a good burger as much as the rest of us. So the only conclusion I can draw after having a burger at Country is that the chef there, Doug Psaltis, has eaten his share of burgers once he takes off his toque and chef whites. The burger at Country is served on a homemade English muffin (it tasted like a brioche roll to me) with special sauce and French Fries Provencal. All pretensions aside, this burger is terrific. It has a properly charred and seared exterior and a wonderfully juicy and meaty interior. The special sauce is a fairly nondescript thousand island dressing that doesn't do much for the burger either way. The french fries provencal were just great french fries, crispy on the outside, soft and tender on the inside, with just the right amount of fancypants pimenton salt. The burger at Country is fifteen bucks without cheese, but it's a worthwhile plate of food. On the Fancypants Burger scale, Country's burger gets a 9 out of 10. For more on burgers fancypants and otherwise check out my piece on burgers in the Times
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Maureen's birthday seemed the perfect excuse for a little sojourn - a wee trip. Wish we could've returned to the rolling hills of Ireland, but a trip to the country would have to do. A trip to Cafe at Country to be exact.
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Chef Geoffrey Zakarian, formerly of Le Cirque, 21 Club, and Patroon (among others), owns and operates the well-regarded three-star restaurant Town, in the Chambers Hotel on W 56th St. It was only appropriate that he would call his next restaurant Country, which is in the new Carleton Hotel at Madson Ave & 29th St. Zakarian has recruited Doug Psaltis (who worked most recently at Alain Ducasse’s failed Mix in NY) as chef de cuisine
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Breakfast is that meal of the day I rarely eat. Which is a good thing considering the amount of food I consume at other mealtimes. I know, I know I should still have some sort of cereal, or fruit and yogurt, or vegan smoothie energy shake thing, but I can’t deal with that. I can barely adjust to being awake most mornings, let alone dealing with the issue of digestion. So it is coffee, from a French Press, with beans from Small World Coffee Roasters; I love their Grumpy Monkey Blend. (www.smallworldcoffee.com). But this week, I am a changed woman. I am all about breakfast.
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