I am not going to bash BLT burger, like many have done. It is a thin West Coast style $9 burger without fries. But I will not do it. Why? Because it was not crowded ; there was no 45...
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Of BLT Burger, Peter Meehan writes in the New York Times: "I was left with the impression that no one in the kitchen is paying attention to these sandwiches." Nick Paumgarten says in The New Yorker: "The patties are five ounces of Black Angus beef at the low end of the salt and fat range, which likely costs them a medal in the best-burger sweepstakes." A few of my foodie friends slammed the place and so I went, recently, with James Felder (Snapshot Artifact) and crafted the following thoughtful review of my own.
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BLT Burger, another restaurant in the slowly growing empire from Laurent Tourondel, just opened this past week on 6th avenue between 11/12th. They actually opened in a location that has been one bad restaurant after another. I was beginning to think that the space was jinxed but like Otto broke the spell at 1 Fifth, I believe BLT Burger has probably broken the spell here too.
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Classically, buying ground beef from a butcher meant there would be a mix of cuts in your purchase. The trimmings from the fillet, the loin, the ribs, or whatever cuts were being butchered that day would be ground together and sold more cheaply for burgers, meatloaf and so on. As the interests of large scale factory meat production came to matter more in the scheme of American consumerism than, say, quality, flavor, or cleanliness, butchering of our meat moved onto factory floors to be performed as quickly as possible. So the likely ratio of filet mignon in your ground beef to other cuts diminished and the likelihood of connective spinal tissue and other less desirable animal byproducts rose. This sent most of those of us looking for art in burgers to the few small remaining butcher shops, places that still do some of the butchering of beef on premises, because classic butchering means classic ground beef, which means classic burgers.
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The Bistro Laurent Tourondel empire keeps growing, and this week Tourondel added another offspring to the brood: BLT Burger. If first impressions are any guide, the new outpost will be just as successful as the first three (BLT Steak, BLT Fish, BLT Prime). An eGullet post mentioned that the place was packed on a weeknight just a day or two after it opened, but I had no trouble getting a table at 12:30 on a Sunday afternoon.
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Eater put it on its BurgerWatch. Friends IMed me about it. But when an AHT reader wrote, asking if we had any reports on BLT Burger, I was duty bound to act. I hightailed it down to Sixth Avenue and 12th Street for some quick B-search™
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