At night the restaurant Lupa can be, well, a nightmare: too many people, too much commotion, no room to maneuver, no way to relax.
But the other day, when I needed a place for a midday meal with a few colleagues and thought it would be nice to get out of midtown, I remembered that Lupa, though not in a neighborhood with many office workers, is open for lunch.
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After our disappointing meal at Del Posto, I wanted to give the Batali empire another chance. So, I went for a quick lunch at Lupa, his Roman osteria in the West Village. The restuarant has a great sidewalk patio with tables, and has a casual but stylish dining room. I only had one dish — a very good dish — and would be happy to return to explore more.
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Lupa is a loud, dimly-lit restaurant. The back room is much quieter, so if that’s an issue, reserve a table there. Located in the SoHo section of New York City that has evolved from being an arty area to a trendy shopping area; Lupa fits in well. There is food service at the bar which maybe seats 12, plus there are two tables outside.
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Today my wife and I will celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary, and will undoubtedly wind up in a Mario Batali space… although I must admit, I haven’t decided which one. Being that we’ll be eating very, very early, reservations aren’t a grave concern… selecting a spot may be a tougher task. That said, it’s time we discussed what is likely my favorite Batali haunt.
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After reviewing Otto and Babbo, I recognize that multo Mario fans are sprinkled throughout cyberspace, while others lack that je ne sais quoi that would permit the proper appreciation of the Batali style.
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Warm olives. So good. Why didn't I think of that. Seriously though they were a great appetizer. I wish I knew the names of the olives...but alas I don't. I really liked the small mauve colored one, but they don't sell it at Zeytuna, so I will have to look at Whole foods. Next onto the pasta.
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I've been having one of the most amazing weeks here in the city. A number of unforgettable meals (Le Bernardin, wd-50) comes to mind. The only thing I regret is having no appetite in the beginning (I think it was due to some unfresh tiramisu last week). Anyway, after various pills, I regained my gluttonous eating powers in the middle of the week. Still 4 days wasted.
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For those who missed high school, the history of Rome began when three brothers--Romulus, Remus, and Mario Batali--were raised by a wolf who promised one child the mightiest city in the world, the other a future restaurant empire and the last certain death. We know it's not called Reme, so Remus died. Romulus built his empire and then Mario came to New York and opened the world's best restaurant: Babbo. He also opened a few others: Otto, Lupa, Casa Mono and most recently Del Posto. I've been to Otto and Babbo but none of the others, so I used all my wiles to convince Diana to join me for lunch at Lupa on Tuesday. As you can see by this picture, she totally fell for it:
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Did you know that Savoy's super awesome cheeseburger is only available till 6 pm? I didn't. It broke my heart. Octopus, Wife, and myself were aimlessly wandering Soho last night with two out-of-towners. We all got hungry around 6:15 and decided the best thing around for an easy, small dinner would be Peter Hoffman's cheeseburger. We walked in to Savoy at around 6:30, found five barstools together, and considered ourselves the luckiest people alive. A burger at the bar at Savoy is one of New York's great pleasures on the cheap. We walked up and declared our intention to take "these five stools and have four cheeseburgers and some vegetarian option." That's when I learned that the sandwich I had touted so much had been missed by 30 minutes.
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The key to eating at Lupa is communal dining. Everyone should share. The long wooden tables in the front room, the long bar presents itself for an evening like that. When you walk in, it is as you have just entered the local eating establishment somewhere in Italy. Sharing is the key here. Many bottles of wine and lots of antipastos and perhaps pastas.
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We went to Lupa Thursday night, just as a mini snow storm started in. I arrived at 6:40 and the place was pretty empty. A few tables in the back were taken, maybe 2 up front and 2 other people at the bar. By 6:59, the place was nearly packed. Wife arrived shortly thereafter and so we grabbed one of the two remaining tables and not a moment too soon, as several more parties were just walking in
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On several occasions, I've been on my way to Tomoe when I've been sidetracked by the delicious scent of garlic wafting from Lupa next door. Tonight was one of those nights; the heavenly aroma pulled me in and deposited me firmly at Lupa's bar.
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There are several sure things about Lupa, Mario Batali’s wonderfully rustic, Roman Osteria. First, the line to get a table will wind its way down Thompson Street. Second, the heavenly spaghettini with spicy cauliflower ragout (chef-partner Mark Ladner’s signature dish since he opened the place in 1999) will leave you wondering how you ever hated cauliflower. Third, the antipasti board—a massive butcher block piled high with housemade cured meats and sausages—will leave you unable to eat these heavenly pork products anywhere else. I could go on and on about Luupa. There are other sure things like the amazing wine list, the perfect atmosphere, the friendly and smart service, and the hip vibe.
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