I went to Sumile Tuesday night because I had heard that their Cherry Blossom menu had started, and I wanted to try it. Sadly, when I got there I found out that that it wasn’t actually scheduled to start until Wednesday. Since five of us had gone just for that menu, the restaurant decided they would do a preview of things to come for us, but were clear that the menu had not officially started and that what we would have was not necessarily exactly what the final menu would look like.
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Most times, we go to a new restaurant and just walk in. 9 out of 10 times, they can seat 2 people or we manage to find 2 chairs at the bar. If not, we just go somewhere else.
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Restaurants have taken two distinct paths of late. There are “The Gap” restaurants—one on every corner serving panini, stylish comfort food, or global small plates—variations on the theme of Paradou, ‘Cesca, and ‘inotoeca. These are easy, fun, and tasty places to dine and drink, and like The Gap, they fit seamlessly into the culinary scene. The other path—the Indie designer route—think Zak Posen—is a bit more rocky, but all the more rewarding. I am speaking of avant garde, culinary wizards like Wylie Dufresne and Sam Mason at WD-50, Didier Virot and Jehangir Mehta at Aix, and most recently, Josh Dechellis at the newly opened Sumile. These are chefs who dare to be true to their vision in the face of populist trends. Bravo.
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