It seems like forever ago (more like seven years) that Wylie Dufresne pioneered the Lower East Side restaurant revolution at 71 Clinton Fresh Food. Dufresne left 71 Clinton to open the ground-breaking WD-50. 71 Clinton drifted for a while, until Jason Neroni took over in March 2004. Many were smitten, including Frank Bruni, who awarded two stars. I was was not.
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Open for about four months in Carroll Gardens, Porchetta struck me as yet another example of the kind of restaurant that sometimes seems endangered in Manhattan but pops up with ever greater frequency in Brooklyn.
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The other night, in the cold pouring rain, Diana, Steven, Katy and I met for a pre-Thanksgiving dinner at Porchetta on Smith Street. We hadn’t been able to coordinate a date in eons, and I was looking forward to sitting down together for a bottle of wine and a nice meal. Just as we had settled into one of the red banquettes lining the French doors at the front of this new restaurant, my cell phone rang. It was a number I didn’t recognize, and for some reason I decided to answer it. I don’t know why. Maybe I thought it would be a major network TV executive offering me a food anchor job, or my agent telling me the first draft of my novel was flawless, or an editor telling me they loved a recent pitch and were calling to give me a great assignment. But no, it wasn’t any of these dream calls. Bummer.
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2
Porchetta, Rustic Italian, Reinterpreted With a Minimalist Touch
"Yellow beets are good, but red beets are pure pleasure." So said my friend as we nipped into our cubed yellow and red beet salad at Porchetta. Without doubt these delicate braised beets with lemon thyme, Sicilian olive oil, candied citrus and perfectly round goat cheese croquettes ($8.00) were pure bliss. All of the dishes we tried were defined by delicate (if not downright dainty) arrangements, yet bold and fresh flavors with creative twists. The distinct tastes in the Brooklyn mozzarella dish with braised artichokes, shaved fennel, candied lemon zest and fresh mint ($10.00) worked so well together it was as if they were engaged in song and dance on the plate. Each of the first courses we tried came with radish carpaccio floating atop like feathers. Even the olive oil for the bread seemed a well thought out choice -- intense and fruity.
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Last week, I mentioned to one of my culinary classmates, Danielle, that there was a new restaurant I wanted to check out and I thought it might be somewhere near Stinky Brklyn, the cheese shop that she works at in Brooklyn's Cobble Hill. I told her the place was named porchetta and the Chef was Jason Neroni, who used to be the Chef at 71 Clinton Fresh Food before it closed down a couple months ago.
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