Strangely, I don’t feel like I have much of anything to say about Bocca Lupo because it’s solid, reasonable restaurant that needs no comment from me. (If I were to say anything it would only be relevant to me. And...
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Last Wednesday I was drooling on my keyboard all day thinking about the panko crusted eel I would be eating at Hibino later that night to celebrate my friend Dani’s birthday. But alas, Hibino just wasn’t in the cards for us. By the time we rolled up at 7:30, the cute little resto was already full, save for a couple of spots at the bar, which really only works for lone or couple’s dining. So we ended up walking down Henry a bit to Bocca Lupo. I always wondered about this place, so I was sort of glad Hibino was too full to accommodate us. Bocca Lupo’s menu is very similar to ’inoteca’s (apparently it is most often compared to the...
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Two or three times a year, a group of ten or so hopeful food writers sign up for a class at Mediabistro.com called Basic Training for Food Writers. It is a class that I started about three years ago to help people transition into a new careers as food writers. It’s pretty much everything you ever wanted to know about food writing but were afraid to ask. Fascinating stuff. I give you the all tools you will need to become a food writer (other than a bank account full of cash, which would be a nice perk). We learn where to get ideas, how to pitch, how to accept rejection gracefully (see also, how not to throw yourself in front of a bus after three months straight of rejected pitches), how to write a food feature, and what makes a great restaurant review. For two months, we hang out together once a week from 7-10pm and talk food, words, restaurants, critics, blogs, chefs, ideas, and in the middle somewhere, life in general. And at the end of that two-month period, we sit down and eat dinner together. We try to pick a place that is easy for a large group and that won’t break the bank. This year’s choice was Bocca Lupo. It was recommended by one of my students, Christina, who works at MOMA during the day and who wrote a great essay about how she learned to love her boyfriend (now husband) despite his addition to his Fry Baby. She’d also written about Bocca Lupo for class and when she mentioned that Kenny Tufo (Maremma) had taken over the kitchen in September, I was on board too.
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On the corner of Henry & Warren Streets in Cobble Hill, you're probably more used to hearing babies wailing than festive Italian music emanating from the lot on the corner. Formerly a salon and then a favorite countertop diner-bistro named Sammy's, the space is now Bocco Lupo, a trattoria style small plates spot with a fifty-plus bottle Italian wine list and a mean set of panini. With large glass-paned walls on two sides and doors held open by an oversized bottle of wine, Bocca Lupo offers small plates menu ($7-$14) of tremezzini, bruschetta, and panini, as well as a daily pasta, risotto, and salads which rotate based on what's in season. Atmospheric touches like candlelit tables, flatware wrapped in twine, and small vases of flowers will help win you over--you might call it the style modern-rustic.
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Perhaps luck is what the owners of Bocca Lupo, Brooklyn’s newest Italian tapas joint, thought they needed when they decided to open in Cobble Hill last month. After all, they named their new restaurant aftter the Italian phrase ‘in bocca al lupo,’ meaning something close to ‘good luck,’ or even ‘break a leg,’ when it’s used to inspire courage before a challenging undertaking. And it is apparent that making Bocca Lupo work is going to be no small feat, as the small-plate trend has, we think, plateaued on both sides of the river. Then there’s the undeniable fact that the restaurant’s menu is pricier than many others in the neighborhood. Suddenly that metaphorical wolf is looking a little more threatening than before.
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