My tumultuous relationship with Ici continues. The first time was disappointing but the other week I was working from home and decided to stop in for some breakfast. I had a lovely spread of poached eggs with truffle sauce atop Anson Mills grits, a side of thick cut bacon (a generous three pieces) and some iced coffee out back in the garden. The weather was as good as it had been in weeks and I liked my waitress. She was attentive and workmanlike and even gave me a free refill on my coffee since I didn't get my first one until my meal arrive (as they had to brew a new pot or something like that). My eggs and bacon were fantastic and ...
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One of the frustrating things about living outside the US for several years is that you remain blissfully ignorant of certain pop-cultural touchstones–sometimes for years after you return. You say Buddy Ebsen died in 2003? Didn’t know that. Someone won over $3 million on Jeopardy? How is this possible? Sure, cable television narrowed the distance between London and the US to some degree, but there are still times when I find myself shaking my head at a missed connection. So it was last week at iCi, a homey French bistro in Fort Greene, where we overheard a group of nearby diners not-so-quietly whispering about the celebrity of our host.
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A lot of my friends live in Brooklyn and they’ve been encouraging me to check out the restaurants in their borough. I’m slowly making my way down the list but iCi has always been the one that comes up whenever I talk food to Brooklyn residents. I was already in the area for a birthday party so we decided to walk over and get dinner afterwards. It took a while for us tourists to find the streets because we’re not familiar with the Fort Greene landscape but we were seated right away even though we didn’t have reservations–and it was 9pm on a Saturday night! I love Brooklyn already!
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Ici is an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant in the Fort Greene section of Brooklyn. Like many restaurants these days, Ici emphasizes its reliance on seasonal local ingredients. It’s about a fifteen-minute walk from the Brooklyn Academy of Music (our reason for being there) and is a safe choice for a pre-show meal.
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I find that when I walk west from my house, many beautiful things happen. There's the subway, for one. A mere two blocks away, even if it is the bastard G train. As you keep walking, the neighborhood gets nicer - the buildings have less graffiti and there's less trash on the sidewalks. There's a cute little gourmet grocery, with fresh bread, prosciutto, cheese and olives. Around the corner is the coffee shop, where locals gather with their laptops and iPods to be alone together. (Unfortunately, the one coffee I tried there was bad. Really bad, and expensive.) A few more blocks and you are at Fort Greene park, where the smell of moss and leaves floats in the air like an invisible fog. It's a nice walk around the park.
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