One regret I had about my recent New York trip was I failed to visit ~FALAI~, a contemporary Italian place in the Lower East Side from Tuscan Iacapo Falai—I had a couple tablehopper readers highly recommend it, one describing the food as “alchemy.” Well, I shall cry not, because it looks like Falai will actually be opening a location in SF! Well, not for a year and a half or so, but still. I spoke with Mauro Buffo, the sous at Falai, who said they are location hunting soon, and if all maps out accordingly, he’ll be the chef of the 40–50 seat restaurant out here. Falai is known for creative cuisine, integrating global influences and...
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I woke up the other morning in a sweat. I had not turned the AC on and the thin white curtains didnot do much to block the sun from my windows. This condition of sweatiness made me crave something I...
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During my first year in New York, my best friend from high school mailed me a bright orange sweater for my birthday. She wanted me to stay warm and bring some Californian attitude to dreary New Yorkers. The truth was, I already fit in with my charcoal-hued clothes.
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My night's quest for the perfect Italian restaurant continues. Halfway through a recent dinner at Falai, I thought that the contest might have reached its finale, but, alas, not quite yet. Paradise requires astonishing entrees, not only bravura performances in the preliminaries.
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It's been over a week and fantasies of Falai still linger in my stomach. After building pastry castles in the air at Le Cirque, Iacopa Falai has migrated to the Lower East Side, a sudden utopia where foodie's dreams come true.
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ating dinner in Falai’s display window is a lot like getting an unexpected upgrade to First Class: you’re pleased with yourself that you’ve got the special seat at the front of the plane, you’re ready to enjoy the pampering and the service, but you’re also self-conscious that all the pedestrians walking past you on their way to the back are thinking, surely, how ostentatious it all is. But don’t think for a minute that we would rather have been sitting anywhere else on our recent visit to Iacopo Falai’s eponymous Lower East Side restaurant. Nosher, our new friend Chopper, and I were escorted up three small steps to what was once the former stationery store’s showcase window. Yes, we had a few goldfish bowl moments with passersby, but on the other hand, and in a way unheard of at New York restaurants short of booking a private dining room, we were given a little sliver of near-privacy to help us enjoy Falai’s incredibly good cooking.
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I rarely go to an Italian restaurant because I can’t, and don’t want to, eat a whole big bowl of pasta. Falai serves the familiar but transcends at the same time because of the imaginative use of ingredients.
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The Lower East Side has gone and is still undergoing dramatic change. Luckily, that area still has the flavor of the city. All the restaurants, stores, bars are owned and run by local entrepreneurial spirits. As my friend pointed out last night, it will never become a "mall" because the store fronts are way too tiny. She is absolutely right. It is sort of tough to fit a GAP into a 300 square foot space and make an impact. Thank god.
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There are many reasons chefs open eponymous restaurants. Most of the time the self-naming is a product of extreme success, ego, or narcissism, or some justifiable combination of all the above. For Iacopo (say YA-capo) Falai, the chef and owner of the newly opened Falai—a sparkly white, boutique-styled restaurant on Clinton Street—none of these factors was involved. His reason is a bit closer to home. Iacapo’s father owned a pastry shop in his hometown of Piazza Santa Croce in Florence called Falai, and tragically, he died before Iacapo was born. Falai is the culmination of a son’s dream to open a restaurant that would honor his father’s memory.
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