Cortez is a modern Mediterranean (fusion, perhaps) restaurant, focusing mostly on small plates, though they've added some larger main course options to their menu as well. Upon walking in, you're greeted by a long dark space, dominated by a swank bar along one wall, candlelit couches and small tables, and funky modern lighting hung from the ceiling. And the bar is worth its own entry. They've got a full page of specialty cocktails, and they're damn good. The Mojito #4, made with Calvados, is pure tasty brilliance. Also of note is the Chef's Bloody, a custom Bloody Mary made with celery sorbet - you have to taste it to believe it. Quite possibly the best version of this cocktail classic I've ever encountered.
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My car is a nippy little thing. She redlines at a whopping 9000 revs and when I get on the freeway every morning I like to push her a little, hoping to get from 0-60mph in a sweet six seconds (thereby putting me fast out of danger from neighbouring snails vehicles co-negotiating the freeway on-ramp merge at the same time as me). I wish she'd drink tea so I could warm her up a little before we set out on our journey, but she says it's not her cuppa, so I have to take her to the road cold. I pop her in first gear, I put my foot down on the gas and off she goes like a rocket... and then... and then... darn it... she's complains about the early morning chill and whap! She cuts out on me and I have to slow down.
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When the Hatfields departed ~CORTEZ~ for Los Angeles in the beginning of 2006, the McCoys thumped their chests and said, "Ha! We kicked some major hillbilly ass." Uh, no, wrong story. What actually happened is opening sous chefs Louis Maldonado and Seth Bowden were each promoted to the role of co-executive chef, which I thought was a rather clever arrangement. I went soon thereafter to try their cooking, and let's just say after my second visit a few weeks back, I am left with the impression that they have come a long way, baby.
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After our first dinner at Cortez few months back, we were pleasantly surprised. The food was creative without being avant-garde, the cocktails were both well-planned and well-executed, and the service was warm but professional. We’ve gone back a couple of times for drinks at the bar. We love the rosemary popcorn, and the house Manhattan — made with Hirsch bourbon and brandied cherries — is one of my favorite drinks in town.
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The tag line for Cortez should read 'Where the dishes are small...but we make up for it with the bill'. Sure, I get the occasional Cheap Attack, but for the most part I'm willing to cough up the cash for a good meal and a fun time. But after a couple gos at Cortez, I gotta wonder what all the buzz is about:
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This was our second time eating at Cortez and we came away with the same feeling: great food but WAY too expensive for the portion sizes. The service was a bit inconsistent though. On a good note, they got us seated quickly and served our food within our limited timeframe (we had to catch a SFIFF movie). On the other hand, they failed our water test (pouring sparkling into Alexis' half full glass of tap water) and they never brought us bread.
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Forgive me. I realize that, lately, the blog has veered strenuously in the direction of restaurant write-ups, and away from the kitchen. While locals may not mind this as much, surely my out of town guests are feeling neglected, since they will not be reserving a table at Jack Falstaff or Walzwerk anytime soon. I've tried to make up for my transgressions this week with not one but two delicious dessert recipes, but thought perhaps I owed you an explanation. (deep breath)
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Finally, my last set of photos from San Francisco! Cortez is the new small plates restaurant (the small plates thing sure is really really huge now) from the great people at Bay Bread. I really hope that Bay Bread doesn't get too big for its own good - I'd hate to see the quality decline. I like a lot of their places, such as Chez Nous and even more importantly Galette. Let's hope they can keep up their success. Val was in SF for as a stopover between Taiwan and Boston, so she joined my mom, Keith, and myself for dinner. Cortez came strongly recommended by Auntie Raphaela. The restaurant has a nice, modern and decidedly hip decor (though it doesn't come close to Frisson). I actually recognized that they were playing Thievery Corporation as we sat down, giving the place a cool loungey feel.
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I've gone to Pascal Rico's new place, Cortez, twice in the last week, somewhat inadvertently. The first time was with Lynn and Anke, on our girl's night out Saturday night. The second time was last night with the indomitable Serge, who refused to go to First Crush, my first choice for the evening, for fear of running into une des ses belles “diversions”.
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