For the long New Year's weekend, I went to my favorite city, San Francisco. Mostly I was there to see my bro-in-law's big New Year's Eve show at the Bill Graham Civic, but of course I never turn down the opportunity to spend an extra few days with my SF-based friends and eat at a few of the city's best restaurants. On this trip, we decided to try Incanto, the restaurant run by non other than the Next Iron Chef contestant, Chris Cosentino. I started off with a Taste of Italy wine flight - a real bargain at $19. I love that the restaurant puts little labels with the name of the wine on each glass, which are easily removable so you can...
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Most restaurants fall short for “special occasion” meals. The food that restaurants serve on Valentine’s, New Years, or just about any theme day is a watered down and priced up version of their cuisine. Not so at Incanto. They put some serious effort into creating inspired and original menus and don’t rest on their bay leaf panna cotta laurels.
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What better before a late flight out than a quick bite at the bar of a favorite restaurant? In point of fact, though we adore Incanto under any circumstances, we often tend to prefer dining at the bar over the dining room. We're clearly not alone -- the bar filled up though there were yet tables to be had.
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Having a ball (or two) at Incanto's Head to Tail Dinner
I've mentioned before on this blog that I used to be a vegetarian. So how did I go from eating a diet of rutabegas and wheat berries to finding myself staring down a strip of bacon flanked by two nuggets from that part of the bull that, to put it politely, makes him a bull rather than a cow (third picture in post).
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Incanto’s head to tail dinner ($60) was fantastic. Lamb and beef tripe were fried ‘til the edges were crispy and showered with chopped olives and herbs. Chilled beef hearts were chopped up and served raw with thinly sliced, fried, crisp and bitter garlic. The firm texture of this organ was perfect against the grilled, rustic bread with a ven-trickle of capers and an aorta of chopped herbs.
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Must be innards season, cuz there are two hoof-to-horns special meals lined up at two of the Bay Area's best Italian restos. Tonight through Friday, Berkeley's Oliveto is serving up The Whole Hog, offering up a remarkable selection of dishes composed almost entirely of pieces of our friend the pig. (Oh, there are a few vegetable sides, though I would not be surprised to find flecks of bacon therein.) And March 6 will see the return of Incanto's Dining from Head to Tail meal. I adore Incanto, and have had beef heart there before and loved it. This year's menu comprises an interesting selection of goods, including Marin mountain oysters; a finanziera of cockscombs, sweetbreads and sanguinaccio; and, perhaps most interestingly (or disgustingly, depending on your inclinations), suet pudding with chocolate blood gelato. What, no brains this year?
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Although it's not as sexy as A16, as trendy as Delfina, nor as pedigreed as Quince, Incanto may be the most innovative and inspired of San Francisco's many Italian trattorias.
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This is my second visit to Incanto. One of the keys to any fine dining restaurant is consistency, and they deliver/execute on that note. At the end of the day, the best rustic Italian dining experience should feel like eating in someone’s home. Without having to close your eyes too hard, Incanto does get you there; the diners seem to sense that a good meal is under way. Parking aside, that is why it is on the cusp of transitioning from a favorite neighborhood joint to a destination Bay Area restaurant.
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Well, I'm back in San Francisco. I'm quite stuffed from the debauchery in Paris, so I'll do my best to take it easy for the next week. Still a couple more posts from before - I'll start France later this week. Here is a dinner at Incanto with my mom, Auntie Margie, Auntie Cathy, and the Chus. I've been wanting to try Incanto for a while. It really got a lot of praise on Chowhound a while back. It's since gotten some mixed reviews around the blogging world, but I was still interested. The design of the restaurant is absolutely beautiful. The room is clean and sleek, with modern lines and edges throughout, but still has a rustic, earthy tone to it. Look how smooth the sign is - the rest of the restaurant matches. My only complaint is the chairs are perhaps a bit too rustic, and not very comfortable. Onto the food...
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The sun bathes this Noe Valley trattoria in a warm glow if you go for an early dinner; the front is entirely framed in window glass. The food takes center stage even when it comes to decoration: a vase of asparagus stands in water on the hostess's desk in lieu of flowers, and the deli case is full of salumi, garlic, chili peppers and onions proudly displayed. The front room is basic with blond wood and dark green curtains, and a tiny back room that looks like a library boasts much of the restaurant's wine collection.
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After the recommendation of numerous people, I paid a visit to Incanto in Noe Valley recently. I love places like this, slightly off the beaten path, neighborhood patrons, a destination spot. Before being seated I always enjoy a drink at the bar, it allows me to absorb the atmosphere of a place, to watch the tempo and flow of service and to get a feel for the menu. I was thrilled with the wine list, mostly Italian and mostly wines that I had never tried, and served by the glass, half-glass, half-liter, as well as themed flights. This is something I am seeing more and more of, it is great to be able to taste and enjoy a wider variety of wines, especially when you have a many course meal.
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We had been trying to arrange a time to hang out with Sarah and Sante outside of Slow Club. Sure we love seeing them at the restaurant but they are always hard at work and it is always busy, busy, busy there! What better than to meet them at a SF Chronicle top 100 restaurant that we have never been to, and where Sante knows the chef and sous-chef!!
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