One night, my friend and I decided to finally try dinner at Kappa, a wonderful gem of a restaurant tucked away in a hidden corner of San Francisco's Japantown. Locating the restaurant for the first time was slightly challenging. We went up a flight of stairs from the J-town Denny's, peered skeptically into a Korean karaoke lounge, and finally found the entrance behind a sliding wooden door next to the lounge. The only indication of the restaurant's existence was a small sign with the words "Kappa" inscribed in neat hiragana. Yet aside from the odd location, this was one of the best meals I've had outside of Japan. Once I stepped inside,...
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The Chowhounders say it’s the best Japanese in the city (San Francisco.) Given the abysmal state of Japanese cuisine in the city, it’s certainly possible. However, don’t kid yourself into thinking this might be a hidden treasure ala Urasawa (LA) or Sugiyama (NYC.) It’s not.
Kappa is a mom & pop shop, hidden [...]
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So we had one of those odd dining experiences on Friday night that led to a long bout of soul searching and discussion of who we really are, what we really want, and what the heck it means to get "cuisine" in the Bay Area?
The event that spawned all this was a dinner with Randy and Cindy of Food Migration at Kappa --a little open secret of a place, located in Japantown above the Denny's and
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When I went to Japan I thought I knew what Japanese food was. Boy, was I ever wrong! Going to Kappa is much the same experience. In addition to the kimono-clad hostess, the menu written in Japanese and the virtually all Japanese clientele, the food is koryori style, a traditional small plate cuisine from Kyoto not found anywhere else in town. Sure most of the dishes are familiar, but if you order the prix fixe meal several of the items are quite out of the ordinary.
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One of my rules to live by is: "Never pass up a chance to learn more about sake." Following this rule insures that I will occasionally have the chance to do some enjoyable comparative sake tasting and experiment with sake and food pairings. It also gives me a chance to meet other Japanese food and sake aficionados.
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Small plate restaurants may seem like something new and trendy. But that's not necessarily the case. Many cultures have a tradition of small plates--tapas from Spain, dim sum from China, and koryori from Japan. If koryori is new to you, you're not alone. Koryori is actually a Kyoto version of kaiseki, a traditional ritualized seasonal meal that is born of Buddhist traditions and was developed to accompany the tea ceremony. Restaurants that serve it cater primarily to Japanese clientele and unlike sushi or tempura, koryori has yet to be widely known outside of Japan.
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