When Michelin released its one star ratings for San Francisco, the results were all over the map. Some picks were confounding at best - One Market, Rubicon, and Sushi Ran, to name a few. Others were appropriate - Chez Panisse, Coi, Farmhouse Inn, and Gary Danko. And then there was Quince - [...]
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We've been hearing about Quince and its chef, Michael Tusk, for a while. Quince itself has been around for several years, so it's not exactly new news, but still, we hadn't been there and it is one of San Francisco's fine dining establishments, so we felt it our duty to give it a try. Although I don't think we'd go back by ourselves, Quince's French/Italian dishes seem like they'd be great for a mixed generation get together. The dishes are familiar enough for a grandma but sophisticated enough for modern types. The dining room is decidedly old-school and there was bit of a funky smell that we couldn't quite place that lasted...
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Since opening four years ago, Quince has been at the top of my list of local restaurants where I like to celebrate special occasions. So how could I refuse an invitation to join some favorite food bloggers in dining there last night — at the chef's table in the kitchen no less — compliments of Visa Signature? Michael and Lindsay Tusk of Quince are still at the top of their game. Even arriving from New York at 3 am yesterday morning didn't slow them down (they were in NYC to cook dinner at the Beard House). Lighting wasn't so good, so my pictures don't do our meal justice. Thank you Heather, Linda, Jennifer, and Michael for hosting a...
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The paradox of this San Francisco-based blog, and author, is the lack of San Francisco restaurant reviews. When I meet a foodie in SF, we often talk two different languages. They might start espousing the glory of a Sunday brunch at Zuni, rattle of their 54 favorite ethnic restaurants, or recall the glory [...]
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I'm back from my blogging hiatus. I am now fully settled, as well as armed with wireless internet in my new apartment. I also have a kitchen with applicances. I've committed myself to cooking, but so far I've cooked one meal and it took a whole two minutes to cook and prep. With school and recruiting in full swing, I'll probably be eating at weird hours, but I'll be eating, photographing, and blogging nonetheless.
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My brief stay in SF happened to coincide with the visit of my mom's friend Winifred and her husband Mack. She's one of my mom's best friends from all the way back when she was a little kid. I hadn't seen them in a long time so it was good to catch up. Of course, my mom was keen to take them to some places to eat in our fine city.
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The restaurant is in a quiet residential area. They offer valet parking but all 3 couples dining on a Sunday night found a close parking spot without trouble. We enjoyed what I think is the best seat in the house - their only table for six in the bay window to the left of the front door. It has 2 chairs and the other 4 seats are banquet.
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In On Food and Cooking, Harold McGee describes the quince as offering “a taste of what apples and pears might have been like in their primitive form.” In raw form, it is gritty and astringent, with no obvious bearing on the cuisine at the lauded San Francisco of the same name. However, cooking domesticates the quince: stone cell walls break down with heat and the taste softens. When cooked slowly with sugar, the off-white flesh even transforms into a gem-like translucent ruby. With this in mind, the name begins to make sense: Chef Michael Tusk’s Quince is all about the revealing the innate wonder in each pristine ingredient.
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Pasta will never be the same in this town. It would be very easy to call Quince the best Italian restaurant in San Francisco, but saying that it’s better than the likes of Delfina, Pazzia, Incanto, Frascati, A16, or Acquerello, all of which might be able to make that claim, is to fundamentally mis-classify it and even more tragically, underestimate the work of chef and owner Michael Tusk.
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Happy Turkey Day everyone. I'm staying in Boston during this break, so I probably won't be eating any Thanksgiving type stuff. I'm not a big turkey fan anyway. Continuing on with my archive of pictures from the summer... Here is Quince in SF, a relatively new place. The chef, Michael Tusk, won the "Rising Star" award from San Francisco Magazine in August. It replaced the Meetinghouse, which I thought was a very good brunch joint, and had the best biscuits I think I've ever had. I heard that bad business wasn't the cause of its closing, which doesn't surprise me. Too bad it's gone though. Anyway, Quince supposedly has some of the best pasta in the city.
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I am not usually one to rush to the theatres on opening weekends, and have the same habit with new restaurants. I usually hang back until they have a chance to become soup.
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