So here’s the thing about burritos and Mexican food in general in the Bay Area: you can’t expect to get everything at one place. The burrito scene is complex, and you need to explore its ecology in order to find the tastes, ingredients, and specialties that match your palette.
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Today I harpooned my Moby Dick. For the last eight years, ever since I moved to San Francisco, I have been hearing about the El Tonayense taco truck. "Ooh," people say, "the El Tonayense truck is the best taco in town!" and it's on every "best of" list I have ever read. But somehow, the El Tonayense taco has eluded me, either because I couldn't remember where to look for it when I was hungry, or because when I ran across it I wasn't in an eating mood. Until today. We were on our way to Rainbow Grocery for some free-range eggs when I saw it parked outside of Best Buy. As quick as you can say jackrabbit, Mr. Food Musings hopped out of the car with my order: one carnitas taco. (He'd just eaten lunch an hour before, but he got a taco, too.) You know what? It was damn good. It came out of the truck on two flimsy paper plates nice and hot, just two soft corn tortillas and flavorful hunks of pork topped with a slurry of salsa, raw onions, and pickled carrots and jalapenos on the side. Mr. Food Musings and I pulled up a section of curb, sat down and ate. Mmmm.
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El Tonayense is a taco truck planted at the intersection of 22nd and Harrison in the Mission. In addition to a standard restaurant located in a building, the El Tonayense folks have a slew of trucks scattered around the Mission (and we think Potrero as well). Other locations include 16th/Shotwell, the Best Buy at 14th/Harrison, and 19th/Harrison, but somehow Short Exact has latched onto the 22nd/Harrison truck as our favorite.
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Ok, I admit it. Prior to this summer, I'd never eaten a taco truck taco, no less consume anything out of a parked vehicle. Timing was always an issue; everytime I drove by one of these I was just too full to eat. So one day, I made it a point to be hungry in the late afternoon to finally try the offerings of these culinary destinations on wheels (some others prefer to call them, "roach coaches").
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Prior to Tonayense Properties erecting some pear/tangerine-colored lofts on their lot at Harrison and 22nd in the early/mid-oughts, their popular burrito wagon was the sole occupant of the space. They’ve since kicked the truck to the Harrison curb – it’s tough to contest the property value of living quarters in San Francisco versus that of a carnitas taco – but the quality of their burritos perseveres, despite this particular truck’s bizarre, ongoing embargo on refried beans. Outdoor dining often available from neighboring restaurant Mis Antojitos. Otherwise, take-out only.
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The folks at Tonayense have a hammerlock on the Harrison Street taco-truck business here in San Francisco, running three different wagons, including the coveted Best Buy spot. I'm pretty sure that they're the guys behind Tacos San Buena, as well, but I have no proof. I've been to a few of the trucks and have been kind of unimpressed (they kept forgetting to put in salsa), but have always kept the thought in mind that taco trucks generally do better at tacos. So, I went down to the main store the other day to sample a pollo asado.
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Met up with A for lunch at the El Tonayense Taco Truck. Eyeball wanted me to give her a copy of the latest issue of Fast Company Magazine which features photos of her (from Eyeball’s gallery) and her furry friend. Pretty ‘nitas.
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If you not only enjoy visiting burrito trucks, but also like to test trees for their shade-providing attributes, this link in the Tacos El Tonayense Mission wagon train is clearly your best bet. It features the same menu as the other three El Tonayense trucks in the area, spelling errors notwithstanding. Take-out only.
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Popular burrito wagon chain Tacos El Tonayense took this space over from Cuban-leaning La Pachanguera in spring 2006, en route to expanding the number of its drivable Mission holdings to four. And with the nearby elevated freeway, the big-box retailer and its massive adjoining parking lot, and the usually pleasant weather, this is as L.A. as San Francisco is ever bound to feel. Nobody knows better than Tonayense’s enterprising executive team that few activities fuel an American appetite quite like dropping wads of dollars on a 48” plasma television, then subsequently heaving it into the back of an SUV. Take-out only.
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Tonayense has steadily been increasing the number of taco trucks they have placed around San Francisco, putting their fourth smack-dab in front of the Best Buy at 14th and Harrison. It's a weird location - the freeway goes right by, the local denizens are by and large insane, and the lack of nearby park space makes it pretty difficult to enjoy your food right there.
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